CAMPING IN PARADISE

Thomas J. Hillegass
 

It has been a long winter of discontent for the outdoor enthusiast who loves the spectacular, natural places that abound in the U.S. –  and it is not quite over yet.  For many, a cruise to the Bahamas or flight to Cancun will dispel the winter S.A.D.s.  For the outdoor traveler, however, drinking Bahama Mamas and wiggling down a conga line to the strains of “Hot, Hot, Hot” does not, not, not.
 
Fortunately, the US is blessed with southern states where winter’s chill yields early to warm breezes.  But in spite of the recent population shift to the sunshine belt, many millions of us still huddle through the winter, planning our break-out for the spring.  How about getting a jump on the outdoor season with a late-winter camping trip to the southeast or southwest?
 
Why would a late-winter traveler choose camping over a hotel or motel stay?  Campers know a  secret – beautiful natural surroundings are even more so by dusk and dawn.  After supper, the camper settles down by the fire with a cup of wine or watches the glow of the setting sun spread across the water, while at the motel they are watching “Simpsons” reruns.  In the morning, it’s a brisk swim while coffee is brewing at the campsite. For this brief time, you are not just a tourist, you are a denizen of a very special place, sharing its moods by day and night.
 
Car camping is a convenient way to visit places within driving distance of home, but how do you explore more remote locales?  This is no problem for backpackers, who book an airline seat, check their pack and go.   We “car campers,” who prefer to rough it in more comfort (not to mention mobility), must be a bit more creative to pack up the many items we will need.  For us they invented duffel bags with wheels,  compact folding chairs and self-inflating sleeping pads. With a rental  car and grocery store waiting when we land at our warm-climate  destination, we can stock up and head off to paradise too!

Whether you live in the east, west or middle, there are warm, late-winter camping places a car trip or short airline flight away. Let’s look at a few of the best:

U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS

Here’s a paradise you might have a little trouble getting to but, once there, you will know you have definitely arrived – Virgin Islands National Park.  Here the daily high temperature is between 85 and 90 degrees F. all year ‘round. Fly to St. Thomas, take a ferry to St. John and a jitney to Cinnamon Bay Campground then pitch your tent under the trees on the edge of the prettiest beach in the world. Take your mask and snorkel because it also has the most accessible tropical reef you will ever to find. You can make reservations as much as 12 months ahead (and you should!) by calling 800-539-9998 (verified 2/01).   (See our  March-April, 2001 issue for all the details.)
 
FLORIDA
 
In south Florida and the Keys, you can expect daily high temperatures over 75 degrees from the beginning of February.  Bahia Honda State Park, about 2/3 of the way down the Keys, has been ranked by  “Dr. Beach” (Dr. Stephen P. Leatherman) as one of our finest beaches. With camping in shaded sites and all the amenities (as well as cabins), it is justifiably very popular. Call 11 months ahead for reservations at 305-872-2353. (verified 1/01).

 Also in the Keys, but farther north, is the also-very-popular John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. While the campsites here are a bit close together, there is loads of room for snorkeling and diving at the offshore reef that is preserved as part of the park. You will need a boat to get to the reef, but there are many local dive services that will take you out. Call 11 months ahead for camping reservations at 305-451-1202. (verified 1/01).
 
The winter temperatures in north Florida and the panhandle may not get to a daily high of 75 degrees until mid-March, but here there are many less discovered camping places with tropical settings and world-caliber beaches as well.  Beginning on the east coast of Florida, Anastasia State Park is outstanding for its campground, beach and surroundings. Very close to the oldest town in the US, St. Augustine, this park offers camping in well shaded sites just a short walk to it’s own Atlantic Ocean beach. Call 904-461-2033 for reservations as early as 11 months ahead but you can usually get a place on much shorter notice.
 
North-central Florida is riddled with countless underground rivers coursing through limestone caverns which emerge to form fresh water springs in lush, tropical settings.  With water at 72 degrees year ‘round, these crystal-clear springs feature swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving and canoeing. The campgrounds at these springs are beautifully shaded, set among palm trees and live oaks dripping with Spanish moss.  Blue Spring State Park, northeast of Orlando off of Interstate 4, has swimming, camping, cabins and a wheelchair-accessible walkway through the tropical foliage surrounding the spring. You may find yourself snorkeling close to a manatee here in mid-winter, as they come up into the spring to escape the colder river temperatures. Phone 904-775-3663 for camping reservations.

Northwest of Orlando, the Ocala National Forest is home to a number springs with swimming, snorkeling and naturally beautiful campgrounds.  Two of the finest, both just off of State Route 40 between Ocala and Barberville, are Juniper Springs and Alexander Springs. 

Swimming and snorkeling are especially fun at Juniper Springs, with a scary-looking cave at the bottom that you can dive down and peek into and a jumping platform above.  There is also a popular canoe run down a clear, spring-fed creek – get there before noon to rent a canoe and shuttle for the 4 hour trip.  There are no reservations for the lush, tropical campsites at Juniper, but you can call 352-625-3147 for more information. 

At Alexander Springs, walk from the campground to the spring at night and you may find yourself in a Disney-esque tunnel of twinkling lights – a billion fireflies all frantically competing for a mate.  Snorkelers  here thrill to the sensation of flying as they swim out over the steep drop-off to the cavern at the heart of the spring.   The campsites here are shady and lush, but no reservations.  For more information,  call 352-669-3153. 
 
In the panhandle of Florida......
 
(THE FOLLOWING SECTIONS ARE TO BE DEVELOPED, SIMILAR TO FLORIDA ABOVE;  WITH 3-4 OUTSTANDING CAMPGOUNDS IN THE SOUTHERN REGIONS OF EACH STATE)
 
TEXAS
 
NEW MEXICO
 
ARIZONA
 
CALIFORNIA
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Climate http://www.weatherbase.com/ (1/24/01)

National Parks http://www.nps.gov/parks.html (1/24/01)

National Forest Campgrounds http://www.gorp.com/dow/default.htm (1/24/01)

FLORIDA S.P. http://www.dep.state.fl.us/parks/ (verified 1/23/01)

TEXAS  S. P. http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/park/parks.htm (1/23/01)
Park Information:   8am - 5pm (C.S.T.) 800-792-1112 (option 3)

 ARIZONA http://www.pr.state.az.us/parksites.html (1/24/01)

NEW MEXICO http://www.emnrd.state.nm.us/nmparks/ (1/24/01)

CA  http://parks.ca.gov/  (1/24/01)

SIDEBAR: SOUTHERNMOST

Here’s a question for the “Millionaire“ quiz show: What is the southernmost camping place in the US?  Those of you who said Dry Tortugas National Park, at the bottom of the Florida Keys, would be right if one only considered the contiguous 48 states.  But, of course,  Hawaii is the southernmost of all the states and there, on the Big Island (Hawaii), is our winner- Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.  

Sure enough, these places are warm when it is frigid in most of the US, but they are the extreme, both in distance and otherwise.  Dry Tortugas N. P. requires a boat or seaplane to access and has no drinking water nor much shelter from that penetrating, south Florida sun and constant winds.  Saltwater flush toilets are about the only luxury here.  And intrepid campers can get to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park after considerable travel, but may find themselves back among  the huddled masses longing to breathe free - the park warns infants, children and persons with  breathing problems that volcanic gases may aggravate respiratory difficulties.   Are we surprised that there is trouble in paradise?

What besides flush toilets (salt or fresh), do we hope to find at our campsite in paradise?  Sunshine (and shade), scenic vistas, balmy breezes, warm water for snorkeling and sailing as well as benign fauna (most especially insects) top my list.  Make up your own personal list  then check out the possibilities below to find your winter camping nirvana.

PLANNING

When fly-in camping, you will be a long way from your home turf and will need good planning information before setting out.  See our ASources@ for books, phone numbers and Internet references that will greatly ease this process no matter where in the country you are headed. Be sure to check the weather and be alert for local conditions that  you may not be used to at home, like flash floods and tornadoes.
 

Your route should describe a loop that brings you back to your starting city to avoid those exorbitant one way airfares and rental car rates.  Don=t try to make a lot of miles each day; spend two nights at each site to minimize set-up/take-down hassles and to allow for hiking and exploring.  For planning purposes, figure on traveling every other day and not more than about 200 miles on a travel day.

Make sleeping reservations for your first and last night.  Unless you are getting in very late, usually you can camp the first night.  At the end of your trip, especially if you have an early flight home, you should take a motel near the airport so you can clean out the car and re-pack your camping gear the evening before you leave. For the rest of the trip, be flexible - avoid making camping reservations unless you plan to visit a very popular area (don=t show up at the Grand Canyon in July unannounced.) 

LUGGAGE

The rolling luggage available today makes comfortable fly-camping a whole lot more feasible than just a few years ago.  One person can easily handle two rolling bags, one for clothing and the other for camping gear. 

For clothing, avoid large hardsided bags or folding suit carry-ons as they are hard to deal with while camping.  A rolling flight bag of the "aisle trolley" variety works well.  Laid down on the back seat of your rental car, the lid-type opening of this bag makes for easy access.

For your camping gear, a rolling duffel bag is just the ticket.  You will want a quite large one (about 15" X 15" x 30") made of sturdy fabric with good zippers.  Such a bag should handle the camping needs of two persons, with perhaps another small duffel if necessary to carry bulky but light items, like sleeping bags.

RENTAL CAR

You will be living out of your car this entire trip.  Reserve a 4-door, intermediate or full size car for ease of access.  All food, utensils or other stuff that has come into contact with food should also go into the car at night.  Don't take any food into your tent, especially if there are bears in the area.

VAN OPTION - If you expect cold or wet weather or don't care to sleep in a tent, consider renting a mini-van, leaving the back seats at the rental place and sleeping on the floor with a foam pad or air mattress.  Renting a new minivan can cost over twice what a car costs, but a slightly older van from a used rental place, like "Rent-a-Wreck" (see ASources@) or others, can be much more reasonable.  Also, these places appear to be quite willing to let you leave the seats behind - ask at the time you make the reservation.

GEAR

 
As a camper, you already have your own gear lists and preferences, much of which you can still use with some exceptions and modifications.  Some special considerations for fly-in camping are:

TENT - You=ll want a tent similar to a backpacking tent except that you can afford a bit more space and weight.  But be careful that the poles, when collapsed, are not longer than your rolling duffel bag.  Buy a small wooden-handled hammer and shorten the handle to the minimum for driving in stakes.   Check for sharp objects before pitching the tent and take a ground cloth to protect both  the tent and your inflated mattresses.

SLEEPING - For compactness while flying, choose very compressible bags of down or synthetic filler.  Add a fleece bag liner to extend the cold temperature range of a light, inexpensive summer bag.  For a couple, bags that zip together add warmth and coziness (any matching bags that unzip fully flat will zip together).  Compressible camping pillows are very nice; roughing it is one thing but no pillow is unnecessarily cruel punishment! 

For mattresses, there are several good alternatives.  Air mattresses of the self- inflatable variety, like Thermarest and others, are very portable and quite comfortable.  If you go for a blow-up mattress, make sure it is leak-free before you go and definitely carry an air pump that works off the car cigarette lighter.  For both types, carry a patching kit - there is no letdown quite as frustrating as a middle-of-the-night air leak!

Another option is to buy foam pads after you get there.  Discount department stores, like Wal Mart and K Mart, sell egg crate Amattress liners@ inexpensively.  These, doubled over, are very comfortable but bulky, so you will need to dispose of them (properly) before your departure.  

COOLER - This article will provide tips on how to avoid refrigerated items.  However, a cool beer in the evening or yogurt for breakfast is sometimes a refreshing change.  There are very compact, soft sided, folding coolers now available everywhere.  Check for water leaks as soon as you get it.  You can also buy a disposable Styrofoam cooler for a few dollars when you get there.

CHAIRS - Sure, you can sit on a log or a picnic table bench but comfortable chairs are one of the things that separate us from the chipmunks.  You can buy cheap lawn chairs when you arrive for about $10-12 each and give them to some needy camper when you leave.

There are now lots of choices in chairs that you can take with you.  Discount stores sell collapsing steel-frame camp chairs for about $10 - cheap but heavy at about 7 pounds.  REI, EMS and several outdoor catalogs (including Campmor) sell a line of very compact chairs by Travel Chair.  The most portable is a steel-frame beach chair for about $25 that comes completely apart (see photo) into a very compact 4.25 pound package.  Recently, Travel Chair has introduced a full-height collapsible chair for about $30 that, with its aluminum frame,  weighs in at only 3.5 pounds. 

 
STOVE - For fly-in camping, you will want a single burner, very compact stove for which you can easily get fuel at your destination.  Fortunately, there are a number of books available on cooking with single-burner camp stoves (See ASources@).

Liquid fuel stoves which use "white gas" (some even use unleaded auto gas) burn very hot, but can be temperamental, maintenance prone, and can flare up.   Propane tank stoves don=t burn as hot but are easy to use and propane is sold everywhere.  Stoves that work from a butane canister are very compact, stable and light but finding the butane tanks can be tough in some locations.  (Remember that all stove fuels are hazardous materials and are prohibited from airline baggage.)

All things considered, if you are going to buy a new single burner stove for fly-in camping, a propane stove seems the best compromise.   You carry only the very compact burner top with you and you can also buy a very small single mantle lantern top that you can use on the same tank.

SAW - A campfire is a luxury on a nice night and a necessity on a really cool night.  You can often buy firewood near established camps but don't count on it.  In most public forest lands (Federal or State) you are allowed to take "dead and down" wood for your campfire.  Turn off the main highway onto a side road and safely collect some firewood  whenever you (legally) can.  

Boy scout lore notwithstanding, a bow saw is very superior to an axe for this purpose.  There are several types of compact, light and very fast cutting bow saws at camping stores.

LIGHT - Forget that bulky Coleman two-mantle gas lantern.  Take two reliable flashlights and a candle in a clear glass container for table light.  When you need more intense area light,  like for putting up a tent after dark, you can sometimes use your rental car headlights for short periods.  Also, if you use a propane stove, you can get a small, single-mantle lantern that uses the same cannister.

WATER CONTAINERS - Bulky jugs are hard to pack.  Try a collapsible or Aaccordion@ folding jug or buy juice in a good plastic jug when you first shop then use it for carrying water later in the trip.  You'll also need a canteen or water bottle for day hikes.  Fill your water containers whenever you can - you could end the day at a super campsite that lacks only potable water to be perfect.

KITCHENWARE - The backpacker=s trusty, all-purpose Sierra cup and Swiss Army knife are poor substitutes for real kitchen utensils!  With rental car camping  you can  take your nesting camp-kitchen pot kit, a small cutting board and other kitchen luxuries.  Get rid of the pot kit=s Afrying pan@ lid (unless you like burnt offerings) and get yourself a Teflon-lined frying pan with folding handle - available at any camping store.   For a real semblance of civilization, take a thin vinyl tablecloth - some picnic tables are definitely less than appetizing.

FOOD                       
 

To minimize what you pack, purchase most of your food items locally.  Anxious though you will be to get out into the country, for selection and economy you should take the time to do your first shopping at the supermarket in your fly-in city.  Start off with enough food for two meals of each type (breakfasts,  hiking lunches, suppers) then periodically stop and buy food locally so that you always have food on hand for at least one of each meal.

 
You can avoid worrying about keeping a cooler most of the time if you shop accordingly.  Get beverages that don't need to be cold: boxed or bottled juices instead of soft drinks and wine instead of beer.  Instant dry milk tastes fine on cereal and in coffee in the morning.  If you do want refrigerated food (meat, cheese, yogurt, beer), get some frozen foods (juice, vegetables) at the same time to keep your cooler for a day or so without ice. 

Grilling is good for fly-in camping as most sites already have grills - pick up some charcoal and something to start it with and you'll be set.  A shish kebab is easy and tasty as is a flank steak marinaded in a zip lock bag ahead of time.  

EXPLORING

Fly-in camping puts the natural world outside the flaps of your tent!  See ADestinations@ for ideas on exotic places to explore.  After a few trips, you will be an expert fly-in camper and ready to tackle the most remote and wondrous outdoor adventures.

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SOURCES



Uncle Sam=s Guide to the Great Outdoors
By: Raphael Sagalyn
Random House, 1998, $20.00
Comprehensive coverage of all outdoor activities (including camping) in all 50 States, all agencies (Federal and State).  Tells you where to get the information you need.

WOODALLS Campground Directory for North America
Simon and Schuster, $17.95
Comprehensive - emphasizes private, RV areas but also includes public, tent facilities.

ANDERSON'S CAMPGROUND DIRECTORY
Meadow Bluff Press, $7.95
(304)645﷓1897
Best tent camping guide for the Eastern US but only includes 11 States, New York thru Florida.

Cooking the One Burner Way
By: Gray and Tilton
The Globe Pequot Press, 1996, $12.95

FEDERAL RECREATION
Information: http://www.recreation.gov
The mother of all Federal agency recreation Internet sites.  Links to recreation information about all National Parks, National Forests, Bureau of Land Management, Army Corps of Engineers and others.       

STATE RECREATION (all States) 
Information: http://www.llbean.com/parksearch/  
http://dir.yahoo.com/Recreation/Outdoors/Parks/United_States/State_Parks/ 
http://www.gorp.com/gorp/resource/main.htm

NATIONAL PARKS
Reservations: 800-365-2267        
Information:    http://www.nps.gov   

NATIONAL FORESTS
Reservations: 877-444-6777 
http://www.reserveusa.com 
Information:     http://www.fs.fed.us/recreation
http://www.gorp.com/dow/
 
RENT-A-WRECK
High mileage car rentals: 800﷓535-1391     

WEATHER & CLIMATE
http://www.nws.noaa.gov/
http://www.usatoday.com/weather/wfront.htm


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DESTINATIONS
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Make your reservations about six months ahead of time for these remote gems:

EASTERN (TROPICAL)

Cinnamon Bay, USVI
Reservations: 800-539-9998
Camping in paradise - fly to St. Thomas and ferry to St. John.  Would you believe $20.00 campsites under the palms at one of the most beautiful beaches in the world?

Bahia Honda State Park, FL
Reservations: 305-872-2353 call early and often!
Fly to Miami and head down the Keys to Marathon - two-thirds of the way to AMargaritaville@.  Dr. Beach says this is among the 10 best in the US.

John Pennekamp Coral Reef S.P.  305-451-1202.

Biscayne N.P. Camping on Elliott Key and Boca Chita Key.  rest rooms at both,  Only Elliott Key has drinking water and showers.   Must take private boat or arrange from concessionaire, call 305-230-1100 for boat.    Park # 305-230-7275.

Dry Totugas N. P. – Southernmost  continental US public camping.  7 coral island and reef.  70 mi west of Key West.  Only by boat or sailplane.  Primitive camping is on Garden Key, no water.  $3.00 per person per night., no reservations. 
Ferry to camp YES Yankee Fleet 305-242-7700
or  Sunny Days price unknown
Water on park?  No?
Toilets for camp?  Yes
Picnic tables at camp? Yes
Shade? Not much
Price of seaplane?  Boat? unknown
Park number 305-242-7700.

Florida=s Springs  Juniper Springs, 352-625-3147  ALexander Springs 352-669-3153 no reserv $10.  warm Showers flush toilets tables.  West of Daytons Beach, Barberville off RT 40, see signs.

Fort De Soto County Park Pinellas Co FL  Busy, need reserv, can only get in person cash!  727-582-2267.

Anastasia,SRA  FL  904-461-2033.  St Augustine $18. restrooms showers tables laundry

St andrews SRA FL  850-233-5140.  reserv.  Panama City Beach

Grayton Beach SRA, FL is dr beach best overall  FL beach, has camping.   restrooms, showers, tables, $18.  in Santa Rosa Beach, ½ way between Panama City and Ft Walton Beach.  Reserv 850-231-4210.

Henderson S.P. 850-837-7550

SOUTHWESTERN (DESERT)

Big Bend National Park, TX
Information: 915-477-2251  (no reservations but always call first)
A high desert delight in any season.  Fly to El Paso or San Antonio, put your rental car on cruise and 400 dry desert miles later you are camping high among cactus and sage in the Chisos Mountains.  $10 per veh entrance,   4 campgrounds, no reverc, no ground fires,   Cottonwood for tents in winter is best , pit toilets, tables.  $7.00,  Backcountry OK too.  Rio Grande Village for RVs , dont know price.  (has showers for a fee). Lodge, cottages,  $50-65, # 915-477-2291.  Park # 915-477-2251.

Big Bend Ranch State Park west of BBNP.  915-229-3416.

Guadalupe Mountain N. P. 2 campgrounds, no reservations.  Water, restrooms, tables, no ground fires.  $6-7 site.  Hiking, canyons, horseback, no rental.   No lodge.

Saguaro N.P. -  May early June desert in bloom.  No estableished camping, backcountry only, camp at Catalina.

Catalina S.P. (Tucson)


Anza Borrego CA

Baja MX

Patagonia Lake S. P., AZ

Roper Lake S. P., AZ

Cochise Strongholed, AZ

Organ Pipe Cactus, N.M. AZ

Kartchner Caverns, AZ Kartchner Caverns State Park®  Camping yes, no reservations

Oliver Lee Memorial S.P.  NM  (all NM reservations call 1-877-664-7787)(1/23/01)
Bentsen-Rio Grande Valley S.P. 956-585-1107

WESTERN

Santa Catalina Island, CA
Information: http://www.catalina.com/twoharbors/index.html
Camping reservations: 888-510-7979
Ferry reservations: 800-805-9201
APacific island, ocean vu, $12.00 per night.@  Fly to LA then ferry A22 miles across the sea@ from LA=s harbor (San Pedro) to Two Harbors Campground on Catalina Island -  travel a little, enjoy a lot! 

Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, CA
Reservations: 800-444-7275
Among the most popular in California and you will see why when you go!   Fly into San Francisco or San Jose, drive to Monterey then wind your way down the coast on California=s Route 1.

Hapuna Beach SRA, HI (?can camp?  From Dr Beach)
Mission Bay CA


Southernmost camping at NP  Hawaii Volcanoes NP 30 mi sw of Hilo on Hawaii island.  $10 per veh, no camp fee.   3 campgreounds, no reserv, no fee, 2 cabins, no reserv.  Hotel.. Park # 808-985-6000.  Visit Green Sand Beach sw of here,   dark volcanic glasss sand nuggets of olivine, lots of people collect.